THE DROP, 356 BARLOW MOOR ROAD

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HotAndCold's model combines the recorded floor area, property type and EPC data, so this 98m² flat has a current EPC rating of D60 and mains-gas heating. HotAndCold estimates a space-heating requirement of approximately 8.0–10.5kW. This property has moderate recorded energy efficiency, neither especially poor nor especially high. Its modelled space-heating intensity per square metre is moderate.

Hot&Cold snapshot

What stands out about this home

How this home compares locally

Based on 10 EPC-recorded properties nearby.

Built form

Flat

Internal area (EPC)

98 m²

Building footprint

~98 m²

Approx. dimensions

~20.7 × 5.2 m

Main building axis

E–W

Nearest building

0.0 m

Footprint & dimensions derived from Overture Maps building data (ODbL). Approximate, not survey-grade.

How this home is constructed & heated

Recorded on its Energy Performance Certificate.

Walls

Solid brick, as built, no insulation (assumed)

Roof

Pitched, no insulation

Windows

Partial double glazing

Main heating

Boiler and radiators, mains gas

Heating controls

Programmer, TRVs and bypass

Hot water

From main system

Floor

(other premises below)

Energy improvement potential

Recommended improvements for this property

Measures from this home’s official Energy Performance Certificate assessment that could raise its rating and cut running costs, specific to THE DROP, 356 BARLOW MOOR ROAD, MANCHESTER, M21 8AZ.

1. 1
   Upgrade heating controlsIndicative cost: £350 - £450

   The heating system should have a room thermostat to enable the boiler to switch off when no heat is required. A competent heating engineer should be asked to do this work. Insist that the thermostat switches off the boiler as well as the pump and that the thermostatic radiator valve is removed from any radiator in the same room as the thermostat. It is best to obtain advice from a qualified heating engineer.

2. 2
   Draught proof single-glazed windowsIndicative cost: £80 - £120

   Fitting draught proofing, strips of insulation around windows and doors, will improve the comfort in the home. A contractor can be employed but draught proofing can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast.

3. 3
   Replace single glazed windows with low-E double glazed windowsIndicative cost: £3,300 - £6,500

   Double glazing is the term given to a system where two panes of glass are made up into a sealed unit. Replacing existing single-glazed windows with double-glazed windows will improve comfort in the home by reducing draughts and cold spots near windows. Double-glazed windows may also reduce noise, improve security and combat problems with condensation.

4. 4
   Increase loft insulation to 270 mmIndicative cost: £100 - £350

   Loft insulation laid in the loft space or between roof rafters to a depth of at least 270 mm will significantly reduce heat loss through the roof; this will improve levels of comfort, reduce energy use and lower fuel bills. Insulation should not be placed below any cold water storage tank; any such tank should also be insulated on its sides and top, and there should be boarding on battens over the insulation to provide safe access between the loft hatch and the cold water tank. The insulation can be installed by professional contractors but also by a capable DIY enthusiast. Loose granules may be used instead of insulation quilt; this form of loft insulation can be blown into place and can be useful where access is difficult. The loft space must have adequate ventilation to prevent dampness; seek advice about this if unsure (particularly if installing insulation between rafters because a vapour control layer and ventilation above the insulation are required). Further information about loft insulation and details of local contractors can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk).

5. 5
   50 mm internal or external wall insulationIndicative cost: £4,000 - £14,000

   Solid wall insulation involves adding a layer of insulation to either the inside or the outside surface of the external walls, which reduces heat loss and lowers fuel bills. As it is more expensive than cavity wall insulation it is only recommended for walls without a cavity, or where for technical reasons a cavity cannot be filled. Internal insulation, known as dry-lining, is where a layer of insulation is fixed to the inside surface of external walls; this type of insulation is best applied when rooms require redecorating and can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. This may improve the look of the home, particularly where existing brickwork or rendering is poor, and will provide long-lasting weather protection. Further information can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk).

Source: the property’s domestic EPC recommendations (open data). Indicative only, get a professional survey before committing to any measure.

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