FLAT 6, 19 RECTORY ROAD

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Using the recorded floor area and EPC characteristics, this 24m² flat has a current EPC rating of E53 and mains-gas heating. HotAndCold estimates a space-heating requirement of approximately 2.0–2.5kW. The recorded EPC score sits towards the lower end of the efficiency range. Its modelled space-heating intensity per square metre is moderate.

Hot&Cold snapshot

What stands out about this home

How this home compares locally

Based on 94 EPC-recorded properties nearby.

Built form

Flat

Internal area (EPC)

24 m²

Building footprint

~970 m²

Approx. dimensions

~67.7 × 17.6 m

Main building axis

N–S

Estimated floors

3

Nearest building

18.0 m

Footprint & dimensions derived from Overture Maps building data (ODbL). Approximate, not survey-grade.

How this home is constructed & heated

Recorded on its Energy Performance Certificate.

Walls

Solid brick, as built, no insulation (assumed)

Roof

Pitched, no insulation (assumed)

Windows

Fully double glazed

Main heating

Boiler and radiators, mains gas

Heating controls

Programmer, TRVs and bypass

Hot water

From main system, no cylinder thermostat

Floor

(another dwelling below)

Energy improvement potential

Recommended improvements for this property

Measures from this home’s official Energy Performance Certificate assessment that could raise its rating and cut running costs, specific to FLAT 6, 19 RECTORY ROAD, MANCHESTER, M8 5EA.

1. 1
   Hot water cylinder thermostatIndicative cost: £200 - £400

   A hot water cylinder thermostat enables the boiler to switch off when the water in the cylinder reaches the required temperature; this minimises the amount of energy that is used and lowers fuel bills. The thermostat is a temperature sensor that sends a signal to the boiler when the required temperature is reached. To be fully effective it needs to be sited in the correct position and hard wired in place, so it should be installed by a competent plumber or heating engineer.

2. 2
   Upgrade heating controlsIndicative cost: £350 - £450

   The heating system should have a room thermostat to enable the boiler to switch off when no heat is required. A competent heating engineer should be asked to do this work. Insist that the thermostat switches off the boiler as well as the pump and that the thermostatic radiator valve is removed from any radiator in the same room as the thermostat. It is best to obtain advice from a qualified heating engineer.

3. 3
   50 mm internal or external wall insulationIndicative cost: £4,000 - £14,000

   Solid wall insulation involves adding a layer of insulation to either the inside or the outside surface of the external walls, which reduces heat loss and lowers fuel bills. As it is more expensive than cavity wall insulation it is only recommended for walls without a cavity, or where for technical reasons a cavity cannot be filled. Internal insulation, known as dry-lining, is where a layer of insulation is fixed to the inside surface of external walls; this type of insulation is best applied when rooms require redecorating and can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. This may improve the look of the home, particularly where existing brickwork or rendering is poor, and will provide long-lasting weather protection. Further information can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk).

4. 4
   Add additional 80 mm jacket to hot water cylinderIndicative cost: £15 - £30

   Increasing the thickness of existing insulation by adding an 80 mm cylinder jacket around the hot water cylinder will help maintain the water at the required temperature; this will reduce the amount of energy used and lower fuel bills. The jacket should be fitted over the top of the existing foam insulation and over any thermostat clamped to the cylinder. Hot water pipes from the hot water cylinder should also be insulated, using pre-formed pipe insulation of up to 50 mm thickness (or to suit the space available) for as far as they can be accessed to reduce losses in summer. All these materials can be purchased from DIY stores and installed by a competent DIY enthusiast.

5. 5
   Replace boiler with new condensing boilerIndicative cost: £2,200 - £3,000

   A condensing boiler is capable of much higher efficiencies than other types of boiler, meaning it will burn less fuel to heat this property. This improvement is most appropriate when the existing central heating boiler needs repair or replacement, but there may be exceptional circumstances making this impractical. Condensing boilers need a drain for the condensate which limits their location; remember this when considering remodelling the room containing the existing boiler even if the latter is to be retained for the time being (for example a kitchen makeover). It is best to obtain advice from a qualified heating engineer. Ask the engineer to explain the options.

Source: the property’s domestic EPC recommendations (open data). Indicative only — get a professional survey before committing to any measure.

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